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New European Bauhaus Prizes

DA ZOIA: a traditional cape for everyone

Basic information

Project Title

DA ZOIA: a traditional cape for everyone

Full project title

Create a capsule collection of quality and ethically knitted capes

Category

Products and life style

Project Description

Today, in the textile sector most of the processes are mechanized and traditional artisanship are being lost. The quality of the materials available on the market are often harmful to the environment and health or made with forms of exploitation during the work. This project, through a capsule collection, wants to show an alternative way by giving the possibility to women and men who are in prison to work, have a ransom and make beautiful capes.

Project Region

BARI, Italy

EU Programme or fund

No

Description of the project

Summary

The idea behind this project is double: on the one hand, to recover traditional types of textile process and specifically related to the usage of wool; on the other hand, to give the inmates of some prisoners the opportunity to learn a profession and have a chance to redeem themselves with the association "Città-carcere", which operates in Ferrara, Parma, Modena and Bologna. Within the prison and the work houses, the volunteers of "Città-carcere" work and propose paths agreed with the inmates, males and females, activities that are moments of concrete and at the same time an opportunity for reflection for them and for the group itself: music, poetry, sport, work, painting, art therapy.

In the first phase, a trainer will teach the inmates how to knit and show the patterns to allow them to make the capes.

In addition, will be used the yarns of one of the oldest Italian wool manufacturing companies, Lanecardate. This company is part of the Textile and Health group, an association that certifies that the products are healthy under the control of the Italian Higher Institute of Health and the Italian Ministry of Health.

The prize will fund the initiative, from training to the production and promotion of up to 50 products.

Key objectives for sustainability

The objectives of the "DA ZOIA" project are as follows:

- Create jobs for vulnerable people who spend their lives in prison and do not have many opportunities for redemption

- To train vulnerable people who, once they have served their prison sentence, could have a chance to work from this experience and integrate into society

- Promote virtuous rehabilitation practices

- Retrieve traditional methods of wool processing and the "tricot" technique

- Use materials that are sustainable with a reduced environmental impact and are not harmful in contact with the skin.

The "Prison-city" association in Modena has been working in contact with male and female prisoners since 1986 and over the years has developed various projects for prisoners. According to data from the Italian Ministry of Justice, as of 30 June 2020 out of 53,579 inmates present in Italian prisons, 15,043 were employed by the Penitentiary Administration in kitchens, laundries or cleaning services, while the number of those working in the inside the prison but on behalf of companies (184 prisoners) or social cooperatives (596 prisoners); then there were 1,265 inmates who have been working outside the prison, employed by cooperatives and other companies, as well as 27 semi-released people who have undertaken self-employment. This is still a very small number, but the result is clear: the prisoners who work, once they have served their sentence, are much less likely to commit a second crime.

This is why this initiative wants to favor this type of virtuous practices in the perspective that they can also be replicated in other situations.

Key objectives for aesthetics and quality

The cape is a feminine garment of wool, silk, cotton or lace, with a square, triangular or wheel shape, which is worn on the shoulders. The goal is to create a versatile garment that is suitable for both women and men. The cape was originally used to warm the neck and upper back especially in winter and was applied over normal clothing: the healing and comfortable properties of wool helped protect the body from muscle and joint pain. In addition, the shape of the cape allowed you to move freely and carry out all the activities that are normally done at home: cooking, washing, eating and being in company. Made with special decorations and workmanship, it was clearly intended for the female public who, however, did not show off this garment outside the domestic context, but was considered for most of the cases more as a practical product, to be used at home.

In a modern version it could be used by both men and women, perhaps with the addition of a hood for the rain or to warm up in environments where you suffer from the cold: at concerts, at the stadium and in all those circumstances where you are stand still for a long time.

Key objectives for inclusion

The idea behind this project is to give vulnerable people the opportunity to self-determine and create a product that, if well promoted, can become iconic. Not only because it is carried out in ethical conditions and respectful of the work of volunteers, trainers and prisoners. But also because it is innovative compared to how it was conceived in the past, and therefore intended only for the female audience. The redemption of those who make these products will also and above all lie in the ingenuity that will be used because once they have acquired the skills to make the products, they will be able to produce unique capes. They will be real artists and everyone will be able to express their ideas or concepts through what they will sew. The material will be unique for everyone, but they will be able to use different colors or add accessories (eg pockets or hood) in order to show everyone their creativity and that even if they have made mistakes in the past they can recover and do something beautiful.

Innovative character

The innovative features of the project are essentially four:

- Knitting tended to be a practice mainly used by women while men were engaged in other types of jobs, such as tailoring. In this case, men will also learn the "tricot" technique

- In addition to the classic cape as it is traditionally conceived, it will be possible to add details (eg pockets or hood) to make it more versatile and in step with the times

- While the traditional cape was produced only for a female audience, this "DA ZOIA" cape will also be aimed at the male audience: for example, it could be a "folkloristic" garment to be used for fans in stadiums like scarves and hats

- Although it can be considered a very ancient product, in its re-proposal it would enjoy the charm of vintage, as mentioned, in a modern way.

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