Break-up Lab
Basic information
Project Title
Break-up Lab
Full project title
Break-up Lab / Microorganisms closing gaps in textile recycling
Category
Shaping a circular industrial ecosystem and supporting life-cycle thinking
Project Description
Globally, less than 1% of used clothing is recycled into high-quality textiles. Enzymatic recycling removes contaminants, separates material blends, and recovers valuable raw materials locally. Two circular garments showcase the aesthetic and functional potential of this innovative fiber-to-fiber recycling technology, paving the way for future-proof business models. Additionally, the Break-up Lab establishes a transparent infrastructure for textile collection through the MEC collection system.
Current stage development
Early concept
Geographical Scope
Regional
Project Region
Saxony-Anhalt, Germany
Urban or rural issues
It addresses urban-rural linkages
Physical or other transformations
It refers to a physical transformation of the built environment (hard investment)
EU Programme or fund
No
Description of the project
Summary
Polyester fibers are already present in two out of three garments and the global demand for synthetic textiles continues to rise. Significant amounts of non-renewable resources and energy are consumed in their production. Additionally, the accumulation of used textiles is increasing rapidly. The growing number of fiber blends further complicates recycling.
The Break-up Lab focuses on the end of an emotional relationship: that between the textile and its previous owners. In collaboration with local research institutes and textile recycling actors, the lab develops sustainable recycling processes for used textiles with a polyester fiber component.
Through the enzyme PHL7, polyester fibers can be split in a biotechnological process within minutes. The recovered basic building blocks of the polymer are then metabolized bacterially into a biodegradable plastic (PHA).
The Break-up Lab produces yarns and add-ons from PHA, enabling the separation of contaminants and thus resource-efficient fiber-to-fiber recycling processes. Using two garments, it is demonstrated how this process can close regional material loops for used textiles in the future. The components of the shirt are connected by PHA seams, allowing the construction to be disassembled after the end of use and reassembled individually. A jacket made solely from PHA showcases the design, economic, and ecological potentials of PHA.
Furthermore, the Break-up Lab develops holistic approaches for the implementation of EU-approved guidelines. Through the MEC collection system, consumers can take on the pre-sorting of their used textiles themselves. The transparent infrastructure for collecting discarded clothing also raises awareness of fiber compositions and informs about the further life cycle of textiles.
The Break-up Lab focuses on the end of an emotional relationship: that between the textile and its previous owners. In collaboration with local research institutes and textile recycling actors, the lab develops sustainable recycling processes for used textiles with a polyester fiber component.
Through the enzyme PHL7, polyester fibers can be split in a biotechnological process within minutes. The recovered basic building blocks of the polymer are then metabolized bacterially into a biodegradable plastic (PHA).
The Break-up Lab produces yarns and add-ons from PHA, enabling the separation of contaminants and thus resource-efficient fiber-to-fiber recycling processes. Using two garments, it is demonstrated how this process can close regional material loops for used textiles in the future. The components of the shirt are connected by PHA seams, allowing the construction to be disassembled after the end of use and reassembled individually. A jacket made solely from PHA showcases the design, economic, and ecological potentials of PHA.
Furthermore, the Break-up Lab develops holistic approaches for the implementation of EU-approved guidelines. Through the MEC collection system, consumers can take on the pre-sorting of their used textiles themselves. The transparent infrastructure for collecting discarded clothing also raises awareness of fiber compositions and informs about the further life cycle of textiles.
Key objectives for sustainability
In the 18th century, ragpickers collected old clothes, which were broken down by microorganisms in vats. Regional paper mills then used this material to produce paper and cardboard. What role could microorganisms play today in closing gaps in textile recycling processes?
How can future-oriented and resource-efficient recycling technologies be initiated? In what ways can we generate regional value through the recycling of our old clothes?
The use of recycled materials for garment production offers numerous environmental benefits compared to the energy-intensive manufacturing of textiles from virgin polyester and cotton fibers. In general, reusing discarded textiles reduces the demand for resources and the reliance on synthetic plastics. As a result, less agricultural land is required for cotton cultivation, significantly decreasing the use of pesticides and water. This also helps mitigate eutrophication. Additionally, energy consumption is lowered, as enzymes operate at around 70°C. Toxic chemicals for dyeing and bleaching fibers are also avoided, minimizing wastewater pollution.
Currently, polyester fibers require pre-treatment to accelerate enzymatic hydrolysis, but the necessary chemicals can be fully recycled within the process. In PHA biopolymer production, additives can be omitted since material properties are tailored directly within the bacteria.
Furthermore, utilizing locally sourced textile waste revitalizes regional textile industries, eliminating opaque supply chains and long transport routes. PHA fibers also do not release microplastics due to mechanical stress during use. At the end of life, modular patterns and take-back systems ensure repairability, value retention, and material reuse.
How can future-oriented and resource-efficient recycling technologies be initiated? In what ways can we generate regional value through the recycling of our old clothes?
The use of recycled materials for garment production offers numerous environmental benefits compared to the energy-intensive manufacturing of textiles from virgin polyester and cotton fibers. In general, reusing discarded textiles reduces the demand for resources and the reliance on synthetic plastics. As a result, less agricultural land is required for cotton cultivation, significantly decreasing the use of pesticides and water. This also helps mitigate eutrophication. Additionally, energy consumption is lowered, as enzymes operate at around 70°C. Toxic chemicals for dyeing and bleaching fibers are also avoided, minimizing wastewater pollution.
Currently, polyester fibers require pre-treatment to accelerate enzymatic hydrolysis, but the necessary chemicals can be fully recycled within the process. In PHA biopolymer production, additives can be omitted since material properties are tailored directly within the bacteria.
Furthermore, utilizing locally sourced textile waste revitalizes regional textile industries, eliminating opaque supply chains and long transport routes. PHA fibers also do not release microplastics due to mechanical stress during use. At the end of life, modular patterns and take-back systems ensure repairability, value retention, and material reuse.
Key objectives for aesthetics and quality
The Break-up Lab merges biotechnological innovation with circular design, redefining textile lifecycles through modular construction and biodegradable polymers. It challenges traditional perceptions of material value while promoting sustainable fashion. The project emphasizes modularity and adaptability, proving sustainability and aesthetics can coexist. The modular cotton poplin shirt and mono-material PHA jacket exemplify this balance, offering both visual refinement and functional sustainability.
The shirt's cut construction features reversible orange PHA seams, allowing modules to be detached and reassembled after use. Biodegradable PHA embroidery and 3D-printed elements personalize garments without compromising recyclability. PHA also temporarily refines and functionalizes textiles. A jacket made entirely of PHA highlights the biopolymer’s design, economic, and ecological potential. Its mono-material construction ensures seamless reintegration into recycling systems, while its monochromatic aesthetic reinforces circularity.
A deposit-based return system encourages consumer participation in recycling, ensuring long-term material circulation. Local recycling infrastructures support regional economies and sustainable production. Durable, comfortable garments maintain high aesthetic and functional standards, proving sustainability does not compromise quality. The Break-up Lab models circular fashion by integrating biotechnology, fashion design, and user participation. Its modular design and biomaterial innovations offer scalable solutions across industries, promoting transparency, adaptability, and sustainability. By merging technology with thoughtful design, it proves circular fashion can be both visually compelling and functionally superior, setting a new standard where aesthetic excellence and ecological responsibility go hand in hand.
The shirt's cut construction features reversible orange PHA seams, allowing modules to be detached and reassembled after use. Biodegradable PHA embroidery and 3D-printed elements personalize garments without compromising recyclability. PHA also temporarily refines and functionalizes textiles. A jacket made entirely of PHA highlights the biopolymer’s design, economic, and ecological potential. Its mono-material construction ensures seamless reintegration into recycling systems, while its monochromatic aesthetic reinforces circularity.
A deposit-based return system encourages consumer participation in recycling, ensuring long-term material circulation. Local recycling infrastructures support regional economies and sustainable production. Durable, comfortable garments maintain high aesthetic and functional standards, proving sustainability does not compromise quality. The Break-up Lab models circular fashion by integrating biotechnology, fashion design, and user participation. Its modular design and biomaterial innovations offer scalable solutions across industries, promoting transparency, adaptability, and sustainability. By merging technology with thoughtful design, it proves circular fashion can be both visually compelling and functionally superior, setting a new standard where aesthetic excellence and ecological responsibility go hand in hand.
Key objectives for inclusion
The inclusion of a deposit-return system democratizes access. Consumers can return worn garments in exchange for financial incentives, fostering participation in a circular fashion system. This model lowers economic barriers and ensures sustainable clothing remains accessible across diverse socio-economic backgrounds.
Beyond recycling, the MEC Collection System strengthens local reuse networks by connecting secondhand shops with supply needs. Through a digital platform, shops can request specific items—such as black hoodies—which are set aside at collection points until the desired quantity is reached. This streamlines redistribution, reducing waste and fostering a more efficient circular economy.
Adhering to "design for all" principles, the Break-up Lab ensures garments are adaptable to various body types and personal needs. Modular elements, reversible seams, and adjustable components allow users to personalize their clothing, making pieces versatile and long-lasting. Additionally, biodegradable PHA buttons and seams simplify garment disassembly, enabling efficient recycling and reinforcing accessibility.
An inclusive governance model is essential to the project’s success. Break-up Lab engages designers, scientists, and local stakeholders in co-creating solutions, ensuring diverse input and fostering transparent decision-making.
To close the loop, the MEC Collection System repurposes deposit machines into textile collection points in supermarkets. Consumers pre-sort garments and receive a 5 to 50 cent refund based on material type, encouraging responsible disposal. A digital guide educates users on recycling processes, increasing awareness. As the EU’s Separate Collection Law takes effect in 2025, the MEC system ensures an efficient, decentralized infrastructure for textile recycling, promoting transparency and long-term behavioral change.
Beyond recycling, the MEC Collection System strengthens local reuse networks by connecting secondhand shops with supply needs. Through a digital platform, shops can request specific items—such as black hoodies—which are set aside at collection points until the desired quantity is reached. This streamlines redistribution, reducing waste and fostering a more efficient circular economy.
Adhering to "design for all" principles, the Break-up Lab ensures garments are adaptable to various body types and personal needs. Modular elements, reversible seams, and adjustable components allow users to personalize their clothing, making pieces versatile and long-lasting. Additionally, biodegradable PHA buttons and seams simplify garment disassembly, enabling efficient recycling and reinforcing accessibility.
An inclusive governance model is essential to the project’s success. Break-up Lab engages designers, scientists, and local stakeholders in co-creating solutions, ensuring diverse input and fostering transparent decision-making.
To close the loop, the MEC Collection System repurposes deposit machines into textile collection points in supermarkets. Consumers pre-sort garments and receive a 5 to 50 cent refund based on material type, encouraging responsible disposal. A digital guide educates users on recycling processes, increasing awareness. As the EU’s Separate Collection Law takes effect in 2025, the MEC system ensures an efficient, decentralized infrastructure for textile recycling, promoting transparency and long-term behavioral change.
How Citizens benefit
The MEC Collection System actively engages citizens in textile recycling by integrating repurposed deposit machines into supermarkets. This system allows consumers to pre-sort their old clothes and receive financial incentives, fostering participation in a circular textile economy. Public involvement has been central to refining the system—citizens provided direct feedback on machine design, incentive structures, and accessibility features, ensuring an intuitive and efficient user experience.
One major impact of citizen engagement has been the increased willingness to recycle due to the convenience and financial return. By offering a deposit refund between 5 and 50 cents per garment, the system lowers barriers to responsible textile disposal . Moreover, the built-in digital guide educates consumers about recycling processes and the material value of their clothing, encouraging long-term behavioral change toward more responsible consumption .
Beyond individual participation, the MEC Collection System addresses broader environmental and social challenges. Currently, a significant portion of used textiles from Europe is exported to the Global South, where inadequate recycling infrastructure leads to environmental pollution and waste accumulation . By offering a transparent and localized collection system, MEC reduces dependency on exports and promotes regional material reuse. Additionally, collaborations with local secondhand shops enable direct reuse of high-quality textiles, preventing unnecessary downcycling .
The MEC Collection System transforms passive consumers into active participants in circular fashion, reducing waste, strengthening local economies, and fostering a more sustainable textile industry.
One major impact of citizen engagement has been the increased willingness to recycle due to the convenience and financial return. By offering a deposit refund between 5 and 50 cents per garment, the system lowers barriers to responsible textile disposal . Moreover, the built-in digital guide educates consumers about recycling processes and the material value of their clothing, encouraging long-term behavioral change toward more responsible consumption .
Beyond individual participation, the MEC Collection System addresses broader environmental and social challenges. Currently, a significant portion of used textiles from Europe is exported to the Global South, where inadequate recycling infrastructure leads to environmental pollution and waste accumulation . By offering a transparent and localized collection system, MEC reduces dependency on exports and promotes regional material reuse. Additionally, collaborations with local secondhand shops enable direct reuse of high-quality textiles, preventing unnecessary downcycling .
The MEC Collection System transforms passive consumers into active participants in circular fashion, reducing waste, strengthening local economies, and fostering a more sustainable textile industry.
Physical or other transformations
It refers to a physical transformation of the built environment (hard investment)
Innovative character
Unlike conventional textile recycling, which relies on mechanical shredding or chemical treatments that degrade fiber quality and require high energy inputs, the Break-up Lab employs biotechnological innovations to create a truly circular textile economy. Mainstream recycling struggles with polyester-cotton blends, which dominate global textile waste. Traditional mechanical processes compromise fiber integrity, while chemical recycling requires toxic solvents and high energy consumption. The Break-up Lab addresses these challenges through enzymatic hydrolysis with PHL7, an enzyme that breaks down polyester fibers at just 70°C—a low-energy, selective process that preserves cotton fibers for reuse. This allows for high-quality fiber recovery, enabling fiber-to-fiber recycling rather than low-value downcycling. Unlike conventional fast fashion, which depends on complex, mixed-material garments that hinder recycling, the Break-up Lab designs mono-material and modular textiles. The use of reversible textile elements enables customization and repairability, extending garment lifespan and promoting sustainable consumer behavior. The MEC Collection System disrupts this by localizing textile recovery, using repurposed deposit machines in supermarkets where consumers can pre-sort textiles and receive financial incentives based on fiber content. Unlike traditional donation bins, which lack transparency, MEC educates consumers via a digital recycling guide, ensuring textiles re-enter the circular economy effectively.The Break-up Lab aligns with EU Circular Economy goals, integrating Digital Product Passports (DPPs) to improve textile traceability and recycling efficiency. This proactive approach positions the project as a replicable model that could reshape the future of fashion waste management at a global scale.
Disciplines/knowledge reflected
The Break-up Lab brings together experts from biotechnology, material science, industrial design, waste management, and policy-making to develop a holistic and scalable approach to circular fashion, ensuring that scientific innovation, sustainability, and accessibility are seamlessly integrated. Biotechnologists and material scientists play a key role in advancing enzymatic hydrolysis processes, such as the PHL7 enzyme, which enables the breakdown of PET-based textiles into reusable raw materials, making fiber-to-fiber recycling more efficient and environmentally friendly. Industrial and textile designers collaborate closely with scientists to develop modular garments, incorporating PHA-based seams, 3D-printed add-ons, and reversible design elements to enhance both recyclability and user adaptability without compromising aesthetic quality. The project also benefits from waste management specialists, who contribute to the design of the MEC Collection System, an innovative deposit-based textile recycling infrastructure that integrates reused machines in supermarkets, empowering citizens to participate in sustainable textile disposal while reducing the reliance on environmentally harmful textile exports to the Global South. Policymakers and regulatory experts ensure that the project aligns with EU sustainability directives, such as the Eco-design Directive and the Digital Product Passport (DPP), enabling the development of a standardized textile recycling code that simplifies sorting and processing. Through co-creation workshops, interdisciplinary research, and stakeholder consultations, these diverse fields interact, combining scientific knowledge, practical design solutions, and policy frameworks to create a replicable model for circular fashion that balances economic feasibility, ecological responsibility, and user participation, ultimately setting a new industry standard for sustainable textile production and waste reduction.
Methodology used
The Break-up Lab employs an interdisciplinary methodology that integrates biotechnology, circular design, and participatory research to close gaps in textile recycling. The approach is structured into material innovation, systemic design, and citizen engagement, ensuring a scalable and inclusive circular fashion model.
A key aspect is enzymatic hydrolysis for polyester textile recycling. The enzyme PHL7 breaks down PET at 70°C within minutes, separating synthetic and natural fibers. This enables fiber-to-fiber recycling, preserving cotton for high-quality yarn production while PET is reprocessed into biodegradable PHA (polyhydroxyalkanoates) for garment components like buttons, seams, and 3D-printed add-ons.
Break-up Lab garments, including a modular cotton poplin shirt and a mono-material PHA jacket, are designed for reversibility and adaptability. PHA-based seams and buttons dissolve at low temperatures, allowing easy disassembly and reconfiguration. A unique recycling code, integrated with the Digital Product Passport (DPP), guides consumers in proper disposal and material recovery.
Industrial design plays a key role in fostering collaboration between stakeholders. By translating complex processes into physical prototypes and digital media, design connects science, industry, and policy, making circular textile innovations tangible and scalable.
The project actively involves citizens, policymakers, and businesses. The MEC Collection System repurposes old deposit machines in supermarkets, enabling citizen-driven textile sorting and incentivized recycling, reducing reliance on textile exports to the Global South. Local stakeholders—including weaving mills and social enterprises—support sorting, upcycling, and regional value chains.
By integrating biotechnology, industrial design, and citizen participation, the Break-up Lab pioneers a replicable model for sustainable textile economies, proving that circular fashion can be both innovative and accessible.
A key aspect is enzymatic hydrolysis for polyester textile recycling. The enzyme PHL7 breaks down PET at 70°C within minutes, separating synthetic and natural fibers. This enables fiber-to-fiber recycling, preserving cotton for high-quality yarn production while PET is reprocessed into biodegradable PHA (polyhydroxyalkanoates) for garment components like buttons, seams, and 3D-printed add-ons.
Break-up Lab garments, including a modular cotton poplin shirt and a mono-material PHA jacket, are designed for reversibility and adaptability. PHA-based seams and buttons dissolve at low temperatures, allowing easy disassembly and reconfiguration. A unique recycling code, integrated with the Digital Product Passport (DPP), guides consumers in proper disposal and material recovery.
Industrial design plays a key role in fostering collaboration between stakeholders. By translating complex processes into physical prototypes and digital media, design connects science, industry, and policy, making circular textile innovations tangible and scalable.
The project actively involves citizens, policymakers, and businesses. The MEC Collection System repurposes old deposit machines in supermarkets, enabling citizen-driven textile sorting and incentivized recycling, reducing reliance on textile exports to the Global South. Local stakeholders—including weaving mills and social enterprises—support sorting, upcycling, and regional value chains.
By integrating biotechnology, industrial design, and citizen participation, the Break-up Lab pioneers a replicable model for sustainable textile economies, proving that circular fashion can be both innovative and accessible.
How stakeholders are engaged
The Break-up Lab engages stakeholders at local, regional, national, and European levels to build a scalable circular textile system. Through interdisciplinary collaboration, it enhances recycling efficiency, economic viability, and policy alignment, ensuring sustainable fashion is both practical and impactful.
Locally, citizens shape the MEC Collection System by depositing textiles in supermarkets for a refund. Their feedback improves accessibility, while secondhand shops request specific garments, keeping textiles in circulation and reducing waste.
Regionally, textile recyclers such as SOEX in Bitterfeld (Saxony-Anhalt) and TEXAID provide insights into sorting and recycling challenges. Through on-site visits and interviews, the Break-up Lab identifies technological and logistical barriers to fiber recovery. Cooperation with environmental specialists clarifies the impact of recycling on textile exports and the secondhand market, ensuring reuse remains viable.
Nationally, the project collaborates with research institutions, including Dr. Christian Sonnendecker of the University of Leipzig, whose enzyme research—already applied in PET packaging—advances fiber decomposition for textile-to-textile recycling. The initiative aligns with Germany’s Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), holding manufacturers accountable for textile end-of-life management.
At the EU level, the Break-up Lab supports the Eco-design Directive and the Digital Product Passport (DPP) for transparent textile tracking. A proposed recycling code system ensures correct disposal even if QR codes degrade. Fully aligned with the EU Green Deal, the project aims to establish an efficient, sustainable textile collection system across Europe.
By integrating expertise from science, industry, policy, and environmental advocacy, the Break-up Lab proves that interdisciplinary cooperation and transparent governance are key to scaling circular fashion solutions.
Locally, citizens shape the MEC Collection System by depositing textiles in supermarkets for a refund. Their feedback improves accessibility, while secondhand shops request specific garments, keeping textiles in circulation and reducing waste.
Regionally, textile recyclers such as SOEX in Bitterfeld (Saxony-Anhalt) and TEXAID provide insights into sorting and recycling challenges. Through on-site visits and interviews, the Break-up Lab identifies technological and logistical barriers to fiber recovery. Cooperation with environmental specialists clarifies the impact of recycling on textile exports and the secondhand market, ensuring reuse remains viable.
Nationally, the project collaborates with research institutions, including Dr. Christian Sonnendecker of the University of Leipzig, whose enzyme research—already applied in PET packaging—advances fiber decomposition for textile-to-textile recycling. The initiative aligns with Germany’s Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), holding manufacturers accountable for textile end-of-life management.
At the EU level, the Break-up Lab supports the Eco-design Directive and the Digital Product Passport (DPP) for transparent textile tracking. A proposed recycling code system ensures correct disposal even if QR codes degrade. Fully aligned with the EU Green Deal, the project aims to establish an efficient, sustainable textile collection system across Europe.
By integrating expertise from science, industry, policy, and environmental advocacy, the Break-up Lab proves that interdisciplinary cooperation and transparent governance are key to scaling circular fashion solutions.
Global challenges
The global textile industry generates 92 million tons of waste annually, much of which is exported to countries with weak recycling infrastructures. In many regions, discarded textiles end up in illegal dumps, rivers, or incinerators, creating severe environmental and social consequences. The Break-up Lab provides a local solution by reducing export dependency and implementing regional recycling infrastructures. The MEC Collection System, which repurposes deposit machines in supermarkets, enables consumers to pre-sort their textiles, making local recycling more efficient and cost-effective.
Germany, and particularly Saxony and Saxony-Anhalt, where the Break-up Lab is based, was once home to a flourishing textile manufacturing industry. This region was a center for spinning mills, weaving factories, and textile innovations, which have largely disappeared due to globalization and offshoring. However, many of the old factory buildings and infrastructures still exist and could be reused and revitalized to support modern, sustainable textile production. The Break-up Lab envisions a future where traditional craftsmanship is rediscovered and revived, where historical textile knowledge is reinterpreted, and where new expertise is generated. By bridging past and future, the project has the potential to create local jobs, strengthen regional economies, and position Saxony-Anhalt as a hub for circular and regenerative textile industries once again.
Germany, and particularly Saxony and Saxony-Anhalt, where the Break-up Lab is based, was once home to a flourishing textile manufacturing industry. This region was a center for spinning mills, weaving factories, and textile innovations, which have largely disappeared due to globalization and offshoring. However, many of the old factory buildings and infrastructures still exist and could be reused and revitalized to support modern, sustainable textile production. The Break-up Lab envisions a future where traditional craftsmanship is rediscovered and revived, where historical textile knowledge is reinterpreted, and where new expertise is generated. By bridging past and future, the project has the potential to create local jobs, strengthen regional economies, and position Saxony-Anhalt as a hub for circular and regenerative textile industries once again.
Learning transferred to other parties
The Break-up Lab offers a scalable and replicable model that strengthens the economic viability of textile recycling by integrating biotechnology, modular design, transparent and a decentralized collection system.
By utilizing enzymatic hydrolysis with PHL7, the Break-up Lab enables fiber-to-fiber recycling, making it more resource- and cost-effective. This process, along with PHA-based yarns and add-ons, promotes a closed-loop system that reduces dependency on raw materials and enhances recyclability. Collaborations with major fashion industry players will further drive scalability and industrial adoption, ensuring that PHA innovations become a standard in sustainable fashion.
The MEC Collection System, with pre-sorting by consumers, significantly reduces costs in textile sorting and recycling, making a pan-European textile recovery network more feasible. Projections indicate that Europe will need around 200 sorting and recycling facilities to efficiently process all collected used textiles for reuse and recycling. The Break-up Lab supports this transition by ensuring that consumers take responsibility for sorting their textiles at the collection point, reducing labor-intensive sorting costs at later stages.
An EU-wide task force is needed to implement the DPP for uniform textile tracking and transparency. The MEC Collection System takes a bottom-up approach, allowing citizens to create recycling codes at home for unlabeled textiles, accelerating textile recycling standardization.
The Break-up Lab’s system is decentralized, allowing for regional or city-level implementation as a first step toward a future EU-wide infrastructure. This approach makes it adaptable to local waste management systems while ensuring full transparency in material flows. By aligning with Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and Circular Economy Action Plans, the Break-up Lab paves the way for a Europe-wide transformation in textile recycling.
By utilizing enzymatic hydrolysis with PHL7, the Break-up Lab enables fiber-to-fiber recycling, making it more resource- and cost-effective. This process, along with PHA-based yarns and add-ons, promotes a closed-loop system that reduces dependency on raw materials and enhances recyclability. Collaborations with major fashion industry players will further drive scalability and industrial adoption, ensuring that PHA innovations become a standard in sustainable fashion.
The MEC Collection System, with pre-sorting by consumers, significantly reduces costs in textile sorting and recycling, making a pan-European textile recovery network more feasible. Projections indicate that Europe will need around 200 sorting and recycling facilities to efficiently process all collected used textiles for reuse and recycling. The Break-up Lab supports this transition by ensuring that consumers take responsibility for sorting their textiles at the collection point, reducing labor-intensive sorting costs at later stages.
An EU-wide task force is needed to implement the DPP for uniform textile tracking and transparency. The MEC Collection System takes a bottom-up approach, allowing citizens to create recycling codes at home for unlabeled textiles, accelerating textile recycling standardization.
The Break-up Lab’s system is decentralized, allowing for regional or city-level implementation as a first step toward a future EU-wide infrastructure. This approach makes it adaptable to local waste management systems while ensuring full transparency in material flows. By aligning with Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and Circular Economy Action Plans, the Break-up Lab paves the way for a Europe-wide transformation in textile recycling.
Next steps
The Break-up Lab will take its next steps by deepening scientific collaboration, securing funding, and launching real-world tests to bring its vision closer to reality. In the first year, the focus will be on advancing enzymatic hydrolysisthrough partnerships with scientists and engineers, making fiber-to-fiber recycling more efficient and scalable. This will lay the foundation for industry adoption, proving that biotechnological recycling can replace downcycling and wasteful disposal with true material circularity.<br />
To transition from research to impact, a company will be founded to drive implementation, attract investment, and position the project within Europe’s growing circular economy landscape. Funding will be sought from EU innovation grants and sustainability programs, ensuring the development of key infrastructures, from biopolymer production to textile sorting solutions.<br />
The first MEC Collection System prototypes will be tested in local supermarkets, allowing consumers to directly engage in textile circularity. This will not only prove the viability of decentralized pre-sorting but also serve as a blueprint for a future EU-wide infrastructure, demonstrating how automated, consumer-driven collection can revolutionize textile recovery.<br />
Beyond technical advancements, the Break-up Lab will actively shape policy discussions, advocating for the Digital Product Passport (DPP) and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR). By creating a system where consumers can generate recycling codes at home, even existing garments without labeling will become traceable, reducing textile waste before new regulations take effect.
Infrastructure or public space
No
Political support
No
Monetary value awarded
No
