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Hiukka 2.0

Basic information

Project Title

Hiukka 2.0

Full project title

Hiukka 2.0 – Hair and other organic fibres as a substitute for plastics

Category

Shaping a circular industrial ecosystem and supporting life-cycle thinking

Project Description

Hair is respected when it is on our heads, but when cut off it is considered waste. In this project, design was used to elevate hair as a valuable material that can contribute to circular economy and resource wisdom. By making useful, aesthetic and purposeful products, we can change people's attitudes and achieve sustainability in different contexts. "Hiukka 2.0", developed solutions from hair fibre to replace plastic-based products. The main area of development was oil spill response products.

Geographical Scope

Regional

Project Region

Region of Päijät-Häme, Finland

Urban or rural issues

It addresses urban-rural linkages

Physical or other transformations

It refers to other types of transformations (soft investment)

EU Programme or fund

Yes

Which funds

ERDF : European Regional Development Fund

Description of the project

Summary

Hiukka 2.0 project focused on exploring the potential of hair fibres. Globally, hair waste is currently neither recycled nor further processed on a wider scale. Hair is an organic material, but it decomposes slowly, making it a difficult waste. It is known to absorb water, chemicals and oils many times its weight. Thus hair has good properties for many uses and should not be treated as waste.

To utilize this valuable material, hair fibres were researched and new products utilizing hair fibre (also animal hair) were developed. Many applications were explored, but development of oil spill products with design methods was in the focus of the project. Hiukka 2.0 started with mapping the possibilities of upcycling organic fibres into new material and a felting machine suitable for hair fibres was acquired from USA. Felting machine had a crucial role for the development, and it was provided by the Matter of Trust organization, an public charity that has been developing a network for oil spill response materials and has satellites worldwide.

Extensive cooperation played a key role in the project. Collaboration with hair salon Kuutio Galleria and Painovoima association started in autumn 2021. Miila Hyökki, the owner of Kuutio Galleria was in Finland the iniator for the idea of hair collection and upscaling hair waste into new products with a trademark Hiukka Hyvä. Kuutio Galleria and the project started also networking with hair salons across Finland to collect hair waste for upcycling. Kuutio Galleria produced for the project felted hair mats to be used for the oil spill response products at the Circular Economy Centre for the Creative Industries (Painovoima) in Lahti. The design students of LAB University of Applied Sciences prototyped different tools for oil spill response as part of product design courses. Prototypes were tested at oil spill response test basin with the University of Applied Sciences of South-Eastern Finland (Xamk) and WWF´s volunteers.

Key objectives for sustainability

The sustainability objectives of the project were related to environmental sustainability as well as social and economic sustainability.

New business opportunities offer the female-dominated hairdressing sector a chance to renew and prepare for the future. By collecting hair, they can contribute to the sustainability of their business and be part of the circular economy. This also has a positive impact on social responsibility, creating a sense of purpose in the community and at work, as well as providing economic security in the longer term.

More recently, oil spill response products have been made from plastic; the hair fibre oil spill response products developed during the project contribute to reduce the use of fossil materials. These products also support resource wisdom and promote resilience from different perspectives. Oil spills have significant negative impacts on our environment and natural ecosystems. Oil spill response products made from hair fibres can help in critical actions to protect our environment and support biodiversity.

Hair itself is an important part of the human body. However, many people do not realise that this renewable human material normally ends up as problematic waste. Although it is a natural material, it degrades slowly. If hair is not reused, it ends up being incinerated and the value attached to it is lost.

The project sought to find uses for hair where its good qualities could provide the best value. In oil spill response, its environmental benefits are manifold. Firstly, hair waste can be reduced. Secondly, the material is used in applications where it can be reused several times, as oil spill response products made from hair fibre proved to be durable and effective. Thirdly, with these products we can contribute to the fight against environmental crises.

Key objectives for aesthetics and quality

Although hair has great properties, it has been under-utilised and treated as waste. There has been a lack of information and attitudes towards the use of human material have been negative.

One of the objectives of the project was to change people's perception of hair as a reusable and valuable material. The project aimed to change the attitudes by designing useful and beneficial products for oil spill response, thus creating new understanding and meaning of the hair material.

To make the change in attitudes towards products made of hair fibres, the project has involved people from different fields of society, including e.g. students, staff of the universities and volunteer oil spill response troops. More than 100 salons were involved to collect and deliver previously discarded hair for use in a product development project. Hairdressers and groomers also participated in project training sessions to increase their understanding of the potential of hair reuse and the circular economy in their sector.

As a result of the project's activities, knowledge increased and attitudes towards the use of human material have changed for the better.

Key objectives for inclusion

The main target group of the project was hairdressers. One of the objectives was to include sustainable development as part of their work in the future to bring new opportunities and meaning to their work. The sector was involved in the project in different ways.

New business opportunities offer the female-dominated hairdressing sector a chance to renew and prepare for the future. By collecting hair, they can contribute to the sustainability of their business and be part of the circular economy processes. This also has a positive impact on increasing social responsibility.

One of the key activities of the project was to develop the logistic system for collecting hair material, in cooperation between Kuutio Galleria (Hiukka Hyvä) making the felt carpets for oil spill response and the hairdressing industry. Kuutio Galleria (in collaboration with the project) engaged more than 100 salons to collect and deliver previously discarded hair for use in a product development project. Hairdressers also participated in project training sessions to increase their understanding of the potential of hair reuse and the circular economy in their sector.

The collaboration has increased the sector's sense of doing meaningful work and supported the companies' efforts to develop sustainable business. As one of the efforts to support the hairdressing industry the project organized a circular economy training for hairdressing and trimming salons to tighten up the future use of human and dog hair as part of their business. At the same time, awareness of the potential of using hair material was raised, while supporting sustainable development.

These female-dominated sectors are also low-wage industries. The oil spill response products developed in the student project can also create new business for the hairdressing and grooming sector. With new circular economy products, this sector can also contribute to the well-being of our society and environment.

Results in relation to category

The selected prototypes for oil spill response made of hair fibre and designed by the students were tested at Kotka’s oil spill response test basin in spring 2022. The research question for the test was how well hair material absorbs different oil types from water and can the oil be drained from the material in between absorptions.

As a result of the tests, the combination of human and dog hair was found to be most effective. The hair material’s oil absorption was better with heavier oil types such as crude oil. Hair material also absorbs water, but water can be easily drained out. It was promising that many rounds of absorption and draining didn’t affect the quality of the hair material or its effectiveness. The material appeared to be long-lasting, holding up well to repeated use.

The developed products were also tested in a real-life accident in Saimaa in spring 2023, where a transformer oil spill from a lye plant in Joutseno was tackled for several weeks. This was complicated by the ice conditions and the characteristics of the oil in question, which could not be absorbed in the usual way by the cloths and mats use. The oil spill cleaners reported that the polypropylene sheet pushed the oil away from the water surface on its own and not absorbing it as it does with other oils. The tested products were felted from hair, dog hair and wool, and showed that the transformer oil adhered to them and cleared the water surface.

The project has raised awareness of the environmental benefits of hair use and raised awareness through various design methods, including storytelling. Hair is respected when it is on our heads, but when cut off it is considered waste and discarded. During this project, design was used to elevate hair as a valuable material that can also contribute to the circular economy and resource wisdom. By making aesthetic, ergonomic, and meaningful products, we can change people's attitudes and achieve sustainability in different contexts.

How Citizens benefit

The project involved and educated citizens and civil society in many levels. They learned about resource use, resource wisdom and the recovery of waste materials.

The project benefitted different groups in the society in different ways. The project also inspired and engaged many different sectors of people from students to volunteer oil response troops:

-The product material was collected by hairdressing professionals, whose value and importance as community members involved in circular economy product development enhanced.

-Design students in the product development courses benefited from the new knowledge of the oil spill response process and the material and circular economy skills that the course provided. They have an important role to play as future designers – increasing their knowledge of alternatives for fossil materials will be of great benefit to society.

-A co-operation organization (Kuutio Galleria) and many other actors of the hairdressing and grooming industry as well as the creative industries community (Painovoima) gained business understanding and expertise in circular economy.

-Oil spill response professionals and volunteers who participated in product testing increased their material knowledge and understanding as well as their circular economy and product design knowledge.

-Project staff and trainees benefited from the increased knowledge and understanding of oil spill response processes and resources.

-Using hair to make a product reduces the amount of municipal waste generated, this reduces the waste costs for hair and trimming salons, but also the overall waste disposal and management costs for society.

Showing that the use of plastics can be reduced in oil spill response benefits both society and nature. More importantly, we need to learn how we can make use of existing materials and reduce negative environmental impacts by keeping materials, in this case even human material, in circulation.

Physical or other transformations

It refers to other types of transformations (soft investment)

Innovative character

Hair is a familiar, everyday material for us. But for some reason, our attitude to it changes when it's cut and falls on the salon floor. Due the material is poorly decomposable it is a difficult waste. Huge quantities of hair waste generated is ending up in incinerators. In the project, through the design of new relevant products, understanding the importance of reusing hair fibres was increased.

The recovery of hair and other hair material recycled from waste can generate new circular economy business. Hair is widely available, and logistical models developed for its collection can provide valuable fibre. However, 72 million kilos of hair from European salons end up as waste every year. (Kollar 2022). In Finland, more than half of the sheep's wool collected ends up as waste (LUT 2022) and all of the dog hair. Even more sheep's wool and dog hair than hair remains unused, despite its good qualities. On a global scale, huge amounts of valuable material remain unused. From a waste management perspective, unused hair is also a major problem, especially in countries without a proper waste collection system, e.g. in India. Hair discarded on the streets by barbers and hairdressers causes environmental and health problems, as hair waste is ground up on the streets into small dust particles that enter the lungs and, when accumulated, cause respiratory problems. The oils, sweat and other organic matter absorbed by hair from the street decompose over time, becoming stinky waste and a breeding ground for pathogens (Gupta 2014). As new products are developed to oil spill response, hair fibre can also be used extensively in efforts to protect the environment.

References:

Gupta, A. (2014). Human Hair “Waste” and Its Utilization: Gaps and Possibilities. Journal of Waste Management, Volume 2014, Article ID 498018.

Kollar Z. 2022. Human material loop. www.humanmaterialloop.com

LUT 2022. Willatus. www.lut.fi/en/projects/extracting-added-value-waste-wool

Disciplines/knowledge reflected

The project brought together several disciplines in a creative and open-minded way. It was based on design thinking and brought together many fields of research and expertise.

The project was developing a value chain involving stakeholders from different stages of the value chain, from hair collection to testing of oil spill response products. The stages of the project process and the sectors involved were:

1. HAIR WASTE COLLECTING involving hair salons and logistics. The collecting system was developed in collaboration between different stakeholders, e.g. including packaging development for the logistics of hair fibres.

2. MATERIAL RESEARCH AND MATERIAL DEVELOPMENT, LAB University of Applied Sciences (technology and design), University of Helsinki (Environmental Laboratory), South-Eastern Finland University of Applied Sciences (Xamk), Circular Economy Centre for the Creative Industries (Painovoima) and material manufacturing by Kuutio Galleria (Hiukka Hyvä). The felting machine was provided by the Matter of Trust organization, an ecological public charity (USA).

3. THE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & DESIGN involved different disciplines and was based on user research and material development together with oil spill response experts and professionals, such as the Rescue Authorities. The oil spill response products were designed by design students from the LAB University of Applied Sciences.

4. OIL SPILL RESPONSE PRODUCT TESTS, the products developed were tested by design students, project staff (including a real oil spill accident), Xamk oil spill response experts, WWF oil spill response experts and WWF oil spill response volunteers.

Overall, the success of the project and the success of the multidisciplinary cooperation was made possible by smooth design processes and design thinking. The process has been iterative, and the combination of different skills has generated many new ideas that can be developed in the future.

Methodology used

The implementation of the development have drawn on various scientific and knowledge areas, including future thinking, systems thinking, design thinking, product development, circular economy, logistics, oil spill response, technology, waste management, recycling, and textile technology.

Design has been a tool to gather background information, develop products and make value chains visual. Design thinking was used to participatory process, creative workshops to build a common understanding of circular product design, material development, resource wisdom, oil spill response and oil spill response product manufacturing as well as to select the best products based on the workshops and testing. The design process and the creation of value chains and ecosystem has been promoted through research and development with experts and professionals in engineering, oil spill response, logistics, waste management, recycling and textile technology. Scientific material testing helped to make visible the potential of organic alternatives compared to synthetic counterparts. The testing and publication of the results were carried out in collaboration with the maritime, oil spill response and logistics sectors.

Without the multidisciplinary cooperation and the ability to work creatively and without prejudice, the new materials and solutions developed in the project, which were initially difficult for the general public to accept, could not have been developed, deployed and adopted.

How stakeholders are engaged

The research and development of hair fibres revealed many dimensions and meanings to which the project provided applications and solutions. These solutions touched on a number of stakeholders. In addition to oil spill response products, numerous new ideas were generated and business potential identified. New innovations can also create new business opportunities for sectors and professions looking for new ways of doing business and working.

The project attracted and involved a wide range of stakeholders. It involved both Finnish and European researchers and experts, students from different educational institutions across Finland, representatives of cities and regions, volunteers and companies that have benefited from the project.

Local actors participated in the project as collectors of materials (hairdressers), promoters of production and manufacturers of products. The hairdressers played a key role, without them there would have been no material. Local association (Painovoima) was providing the workshop for the manufacturing. Co-operation company (Kuutio Galleria) enabled the collection and production of the material and the manufacturing of the products, while a local university (LAB) was responsible for research and development work. City of Lahti was also involved in the project.

National players included Posti Oy (national postal services), supporting the logistics of hair collection. WWF played an important role in the project. WWF, with its oil spill response team, is both a national and international actor, with whom user testing was carried out and ideas for further development were collected. Oil spill response experts from the South-Eastern Finland University of Applied Sciences (Xamk) were closely involved in the activities. Oil spill response expertise in practical higher education work in Finland is the domain of Xamk and the test basins are in city of Kotka. Xamk's experts were involved in both practical tests and scientific research.

Global challenges

Global challenges such as climate change must be on the common agenda for all of us and cannot be ignored. The destruction of the environment by human activities causes a wide range of problems, which often accumulate and cascade, causing more damage than could have been imagined.

The systemic solution to oil spills would be to abandon internal combustion engines and hence the fuels they use. However, this does not seem to be our answer as a human race to the climate challenge. A partial answer is to switch from mineral-based fuels to bio-based ones. This will help, but on the other hand it will create a new problem. It is more challenging to prevent potential accidents involving bio-based oils than mineral-based ones. Bio-based oils mix with water and, like mineral-based oils, do not remain largely separated from it. One solution for dealing with bio-based oil spills is bio-based oil spill response products, these could work better than synthetic ones which are mineral oil based.

In line with the EU plastics strategy, the use of plastics should be reduced, with a ban on single-use plastics already decided in 2018. Substitutes for plastic can be found in nature, and from as yet untapped sources such as side streams, which are worth a closer look.

The Earth's resources are used in August on average, the pace of resource wastage would require more Earths to continue at the same rate. However, there are no more in reserve to be wasted. More accurate use of all resources, including those that are currently waste, is more important than ever. Hair is waste with good technical properties; it should not be thrown away.

Hair is generated all the time, it is generated nearby, everywhere. Hair exists in humans, dogs, cats, and other animals, it is already being cut and trimmed anyway. Using the good properties of hair, such as its oil absorption capacity, in products is an important environmental act.

Learning transferred to other parties

Hair is available in every spot of the world. The hair fibre collection model developed in Finland could also be implemented in other parts of the world through cooperation. The production of oil spill response mats and products does not require high technology and can be produced with simple equipment.

The project's approach of using waste materials to create new products that promote the wellbeing of nature through the principles of circular economy, social responsibility and design thinking can be applied to other materials as well. As the availability of virgin materials diminishes and prices rise, models such as the one developed in our project, which aim to be able to use local materials and produce useful and relevant products locally, will help multiple stakeholders, from a social, economic and environmental responsibility perspective.

Keywords

Waste reduction and resource resilience
Replacing fossil materials with organic fibres
Oil spill response
Social responsibility
Regenerative design

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